Wednesday, 26 August 2009

Ireland Trip Summary

Filed under: Hiking,Ireland — Tags: — George Privon @ 03:39

Over the past few months I have compiled and uploaded journal entries and pictures from a week and a half in Ireland. It was a great trip with a great group. I won’t be adding anything content-wise here, but merely want to provide chronological links to the posts and pictures.

Enjoy!

Ireland Days 9 & 10: Dingle Peninsula & Travel Home

Filed under: Hiking,Ireland — Tags: , — George Privon @ 01:39

The following is an except from my trip journal during my 11 days in Ireland.

30 May 2009 15:00

Right now I’m on the flight to JFK. We’re over the Atlantic Ocean, west of Ireland. Judging by the in-flight map, we won’t get a view of Iceland as our route is too far South.

We had a great last day on the Trek yesterday. After breakfast we assembled once again and followed Tim out in search of adventure. The morning was spent with quick stops at a variety of sights and archaeological locations. Tim says there are over 2000 known sites, but many more likely exist.

Our first stop was at the former house of Viscount. Now it an all female boarding school. However, it has several Ogham stones, the earliest written form of Irish. It was interesting to see the old script.

Ogham Stone Ogham Alphabet

The next stop was a a bluff overlooking the sea. It was a nice short hike, but with great views, including an island that looks like a sleeping giant. The best view of that island came a bit earlier as we went over a pass.

Hiking Flying

It was fairly breezy on the bluff and we got to watch the gulls playing. Several people also got to chase their hats around!

Ocean Panorama

We then made a quick stop down the road at a pier made famous by a photograph of sheep all over the dock.

Island Bound

Yesterday featured a lot of archaeological and historical sights. With this theme, we visited an old chapel on the pilgrim’s route to Mount Brendan. It is the only remaining building of its type which is totally intact. I believe it is called a Corpal Structure, mortraless construction which is effective at keeping rain out. This particular one would have been a place for pilgrims to stop and say prayers on their 18 km trek to Mount Brandon. We spent a bit of time looking around before leaving to have lunch.

Church

Our lunch location was quite cool: a partially reconstructed ring fort! Wall had been built inside the main outer wall where buildings were likely located. It was up on the side of a hill and so also afforded a great view.

Lunch at a Ring Fort Group

After lunch we went to the ruins of a nearby church. Its architecture resembled that of Cormac’s Chapel at the Rock of Cashel. While not dedicated to St Brendan, the church had what appeared to be an image of a boat on one of the outer walls, probably a nod to St. Brendan. Tim also showed us a sundial in the cemetery area.

Statue and Church Sundial

Next up was the last hike of the trip. We did a several mile trip up a bluff overlooking the ocean. As with earlier in the day, the wind was blowing a good bit. The views were fantastic though. We found sea shells on top of a cliff about 30m above the ocean. Gulls would bring their catches up here to eat.

Hiking Up Chris and Peter Fence

There was a nice cloud over Mount Brandon, shaped by the winds blowing on top of the mountain. We also see the three sisters behind us in the distance.

Cloud Over Mount Brandon Dad and Mount Brandon Ocean

When we reached the highest point on the hike were were treated with the ruins of a Napoleonic watchtower. It had been built by the English to be sure Napoleon didn’t invade Ireland. We stayed around the ruins for a bit to enjoy the views and a piece of chocolate. The descent to the bus was fairly quick.

To the Watchtower Watchtower Ruins

Countryside

The final scenic stop of the trip was St. Brendan’s creek. This is the site of his departure on a voyage in which he is supposed to have discovered North America. It would have happened in the early 6th century. His trip was attempted by someone in the 1970s. The successfully replicated his route (with a replica of a possible ship), indicating that the journey was plausible.

Departure Point

We then had our last group dinner in Dingletown. My family and I walked around the town a bit, seeing some of the fishing boats in the harbor. At 22:30, we had the last group event: a slideshow of the trip. It was cool to see some of Tim’s pictures and remember the things we’d done on the trip.. 10 days of fun and adventure in Ireland.

Harbor

All of the pictures from Day 9 are available here: Ireland Day 9: Dingle Peninsula on flickr

Sunday, 23 August 2009

Ireland Day 8: Dingle and Mount Brendan

Filed under: Hiking,Ireland — Tags: , , , , — George Privon @ 16:00

The following is an except from my trip journal during my 11 days in Ireland.

28 May 2009 15:45

Today is half-transfer, half-free. In the morning we had our last breakfast in Kenmare (at Virginia’s B&B). I had an excellent dish consisting of a slice of bread with pears on it. This in turn was covered in blue cheese and baked. As it was served, it was topped off with two strips of “streaky bacon” and accompanied with a sauce. Delicious. The lady running the B&B (along with her husband) had won and award for this recipe.

After leaving Kenmare we began driving to the Dingle Peninsula. we stopped three times along the way. The first was another gorgeous overlook above Killarney National Forest. A few pictures and we pressed on.

Killarney National Forest

The next stop had three interesting features. The most obvious of which was the ruins of a castle. The walls were in relatively poor shape and the building showed evidence of the dynamiting that took place during the Cromwellian era. Next to the castle was a nice storm beach in a little cove. There were many huge rocks which had been tossed up on the shore by storms. Quite cool.

Ruins

The third feature was a holy well. This particular well was dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Each year on the 29th of August, people assemble to pray at the well. Several us of, myself included, had a sip from the well.

Walking around a holy well

The rest of the morning was spent driving to Dingle, on the Dingle Peninsula. We checked into the Lighthouse B&B upon arrival and then went into town for a quick lunch at Harrington’s Family Restaurant. Very good fish and chips.

Most of the group had dispersed and went off to do their own thing. Tim and I dropped Dad, Peter, and Steve off at a golf course to play 18 holes. We were planning to go climb Mount Brandon but it looked to still be covered in clouds at 15:00 so we opted to hold off for a while to see if the weather improved…

28 May 2009 23:15

Tim and I met again at 16:00. The weather still looked iffy, but we decided to drive out and see. Initially it didn’t look good so we started driving towards a section of the Dingle Way just north of the mountain.

However seeing sunlight on the tops of some lower peaks we decided to go back and try Mount Brandon. The hiking started just before 17:00 and followed white marker posts through a steep pasture. The climb gained elevation the entire way. The terrain was a mixture of rocky trail and soggy wet bog. Impressive that some pilgrims do the climb barefoot.

The way is also marked by 15 wooden crosses (I believe related to the rosary). By the 5th cross we were in the clouds. There was a standing stone by one of the crosses on the way up, suggesting the pilgrimage was in use long before St. Brendan.

Cross IV Tim and Standing Stone Tim Hiking

After an hour and 15 minutes we reached the summit, still in the clouds. We climbed up the ~730m quite quickly. My calves were pretty beat. The summit was interesting, with a large carin on top and a large wooden cross. There were also earthen/rock mounds: what appeared to be older carins, now covered by moss and grass.

After about 10 minutes on top, the clouds parted to give us an amazing view. We were in the sun, with a sea of clouds stretching below us. Then a few seconds later, we were engulfed by clouds once again. Very spectacular. It happened a few more times during the half hour we spend at the summit.

Summit

We practically ran down the mountain, reaching the car 2 hours and 50 minutes after we started. Excellent climb!

Tomorrow is my last full day in Ireland. It sure has been a fun trip. Every view here looks postcard worthy… amazing place.

All the pictures from Day 8 are available here: Ireland Day 8: Inich Beach, Mount Brandon on flickr

Friday, 7 August 2009

Ireland Day 7: Killarney National Forest

Filed under: Hiking,Ireland — Tags: , — George Privon @ 18:34

The following is an except from my trip journal during my 11 days in Ireland.

27 May 2009

This morning was another wet one. As it wasn’t forecast to clear until the afternoon, we opted for plan B, a different hike through Killarny National Forest (Ireland’s first national forest). We packed our lunches after arriving at the park. We then hiked over to Muckrock House, which is located in the park.

Starting out on the hike we walked a few km until we reached an old Abby. I enjoy walking through and photographing ruins, so it was a nice stop. It appeared be undergoing some restoration as well.

Abby Ruins

The next major sight along the hike was a Yew forest. This particular one was about 200 years old, so relatively young. It was a cool forest, with only moss growing on the ground.

Yew Forest

Our lunch stop was at the edge of one of the beautiful lakes in the park. Unfortunately, it was infested with midges. We continued on after lunch, hiking around the lake.

Lunch Stop Panorama

The last major stop we made was at a nice cascading waterfall. Oh, if they only froze in the winter! As with most rivers here, they seemed to be turned brown by the peat and bog.

Waterfall

On the way back to Kenmare we stopped at “Ladies' View”, which has an amazing view of the park. It was named this after Queen Victoria and her ladies and waiting, as they had stopped at the lookout during a visit.

We arrived back in Kenmare around 15:15. The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring the town and picking up some presents and postcards. We went to a pub after dinner and listened to some traditional irish music. Two accordions and a guitar. It was quite good!

All of the pictures from Day 7 are available here: Ireland Day 7: Killarney National Forest on flickr.

Wednesday, 24 June 2009

Ireland Day 6: Gleninchaquin Park

Filed under: Hiking,Ireland — Tags: , , — George Privon @ 19:04

The following is an except from my trip journal during my 11 days in Ireland.

26 May 2009

Today was our day with a local guide. We met Paddy along the road just east of Tuosist. Tim continued on to run some errands while we hiked another section of the Beara Way.

We started through a sheep pasture, contending with the ever present mud. As we hiked in we started climbing up to a ride. Along the way we made frequent stops as Paddy pointed out local plants and flowers.

Crossing the Mud Paddy Pointing out Flowers

We crested the ridge in somewhat breezy and rainy conditions. It was worth every bit as we were treated to a spectacular view of the valley containing “Lough Inchiquin”. Paddy was born in a cottage at the end of the valley (1953) when there was no electricity or cars in the valley. He relayed stories of his youth as we hiked down the other side of the ridge.

Hiking Descending

Lough Inichiquin Panorama

Tim met us at the end of our hike, down in the valley. We took a short walk to a standing stone and a stone circle sitting at the NW end of Lough Inichiquin. Possibly serving an astronomical or ceremonial function, they were probably built ~6000 years ago! This particular one featured 5 stones and an impressive view of the lake and waterfall which feeds it.

Group at a stone circle

Our last hiking stop of the day was Gleninchaquin Park. This gorgeous park is on the land owned by Paddy’s oldest brother and their father before him. There are 5 hiking trails in the park with a range of lengths and difficulties.

We ate lunch at the main park building before hiking to the base of the waterfall. We snapped a few group pictures below the falls before starting up a hike that would take us over the stream feeding the waterfall above us. Tim and Paddy filled us in on some local myths and stories regarding the area. One in particular about a giant who used one of the lakes as a bathtub. Him jumping into the lake is what resulted in all the drainages surrounding it.

Group Shot 2 Hiking

After a decent ~200m climb, we got an excellent view of the lake feeding the waterfall: Cummeenaloughahun. We then crossed a bridge over the stream connecting the lake and waterfall. Shortly thereafter, Paddy showed us how to cut peat and lay it out to dry so it could be used as fuel during the winter. Most of us gave it a try and seemed to do ok at it.

Uphill

The Upper Lake

Paddy Cutting Peat Stacking to dry Mom Cutting Peat

We finished off the hiking portion of the day by descending back to the farm, with fantastic views the whole way down. The last section of the walk followed the creek in which Paddy and his brothers used to swim, and in which their mother used to wash clothes.

Our last stop with Paddy was naurally the Pub. We all had a nice pint of Murphy’s before bidding farewell. Then we piled back into the bus for the drive to Kenmare where we checked into “Virginia’s Guest House”.

All of the pictures from Day 6 are available here: Ireland Day 6: Gleninchaquin Park on flickr

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